Gwalior Fort takes more out of you than you expect. You can expect to spend about two or three hours in total walking up and down it, on the ramparts, and looking out from them over the rest of the city. As you descend from the fort, you will have worked up a substantial appetite. At that point, only a city with a truly outstanding food culture will be able to satisfy the craving followed by a long day of exploration.
What is Gwalior’s food culture like?
Gwalior is in north-central Madhya Pradesh. It has a royal heritage and the food in Gwalior reflects that. The Scindia family ruled here once upon a time and that heritage is shown through the food: lots of ghee, oodles of spices and always enough food to fill you up completely.
Kachori at Beharilal’s: The only logical first stop
Beharilal’s is the first stop to sample some of the city’s finest snack foods on your journey through Gwalior. Located in an iconic building in Gwalior, Beharilal’s has been a staple of the community for generations. The kachori, or deep-fried, spiced, lentil-filled dumplings topped with a tangy tamarind chutney, seem perfect the minute you step off of the fort.
I reached Beharilal’s in a state of mild desperation. The kachori arrived hot, slightly crisp on the outside and soft within. I had two. I wanted a third but exercised rare restraint. The tamarind chutney had a sharpness that cut through the richness perfectly.
Gwalior’s bedai: The breakfast that deserves more attention
Bedai is another fried bread that has been popular in Gwalior and its surrounding areas for a very long time. Bedai is also typically made from urad dal and is often served with aloo sabzi and a small amount of sweet halwa on the side as an accompaniment.
I found a small roadside stall near the old city area in the afternoon that was serving bedai and people were queued for eating at this stall.
Dahi wada at the old city stalls: Simple and exactly right
Gwalior’s dahi wada is softer and more generously dressed than versions I have had elsewhere. Lentil fritters soaked in thick yoghurt, topped with tamarind chutney, green chutney, and a dusting of spices. It is cooling, filling, and deeply satisfying after a long sunny morning.
The stalls selling dahi wada near Phool Bagh and the old city lanes are the ones worth finding. Nothing fancy, nothing written on a board in English. Just small counters with steel trays and a steady queue of people who know exactly what they are there for.
Gwalior sweets: The mithai that rounds the trail off
Gwalior has a strong tradition of mithai, and the local sweet shops reflect that seriously. The city is particularly known for its gajak, a thin and crisp sweet made from sesame seeds and jaggery, as well as a distinctive style of ladoo prepared with generous amounts of ghee.
I stopped at a well-known sweet shop on my way back through the main market. I tried the gajak first. It shattered cleanly between my teeth and left a warm, nutty sweetness behind. I bought a packet to carry home. It lasted approximately one day.
Chai stops: The glue that holds the trail together
No food trail in a North Indian city is complete without accounting for chai. Gwalior’s tea stalls are everywhere and consistently good, strong, slightly sweet, and with enough ginger to make themselves known.
I had three cups over the course of the day. One after the kachori, one between the dahi wada and the sweet shops, and one final cup sitting on a low wall near the old city as the afternoon light shifted. That last cup, with nothing to do and nowhere to be, was the best one.
Why Gwalior deserves a full food day?
Most people visit Gwalior on a day trip from Agra or as a quick stop between trains. They see the fort and leave, not realising that there’s an entire food trail that they missed. That’s a true shame. Gwalior’s food isn’t meant to be photogenic or trendy; it’s old-fashioned, confident, and has a deep-rooted connection to the city.
After spending time at the fort, with aching limbs and true hunger, it gives you the feeling that food is meant to give you. By the end of the day, I understood why travellers who visit the city and spend their time in hotels in Gwalior often discover a side of the city that day-trippers rarely experience.
